Gramicci Pants & Trousers

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Gramicci pants and trousers are where the brand started. Mike Graham cut the first pair in 1982 with a diamond gusset in the crotch and a nylon belt that cinches one-handed, and both are still

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22 products

The Gramicci G-Pant, and what the rest vary from

The G-Pant is the trouser version of the shorts Mike Graham made in 1982, and it is still the centre of the range — six colourways here, in cotton twill and canvas. Two things define it. A diamond-shaped panel is set into the crotch instead of a single crossing seam, an idea taken from martial arts trousers, so the fabric does not pull tight when a leg goes above waist height. And the waistband is elasticated and carries a nylon webbing belt with a backpack-style buckle, pulled tight with one hand, which came from needing to adjust a waist while hanging off rock with the other hand occupied. Every trouser on this page inherits at least one of those.

Choosing between the Gramicci trouser cuts

The G-Pant is the one to start with: regular through the thigh, straight to the ankle, and the most forgiving to wear. The Swell Pant is the softer, more relaxed reading of it. Canvas EQT is the heavier proposition, generally in a stiffer cloth that takes a few wears to give. The cargo cuts — Rig Cargo, Denim Loose Cargo — carry the extra pockets and a fuller leg with them. The Gadget Pant is the utility one, first made in the early nineties: its canvas pockets wrap from the front round to the back, and there is a strip of webbing above the right pocket for keys, a carabiner or a bottle opener. Then there are the pieces that sit outside the climbing lineage altogether: the overdyed hickory work pant and the Japanese chambray double knee are cut as workwear, and the wool relaxed pleated trouser is a tailored shape that happens to be made by an outdoor brand.

What the built-in belt means in practice

It is the detail that decides whether these work for you. There is no fixed buckle position, so the waist adjusts continuously rather than in inch increments — useful if you sit between waist sizes, and useful again over the course of a day. Nothing rigid sits at the front, so a rucksack hip belt or a car seatbelt has nothing to press against, and the trousers pack flat. The trade-offs are real too: it is a built-in belt rather than a conventional one, so it will not take a buckle you already own, and the excess webbing needs tucking if you want a clean line under a shirt.

See the current Gramicci shorts, look through reduced Gramicci, or browse the And Wander collaboration.

Gramicci Pants FAQs

The G-Pant is the original 1982 cut: fuller through the leg, a higher rise, and made in cotton twill or canvas. The NN-Pant — New Narrow — was designed by Gramicci's Japanese team in 2005 as a slimmer, lower-rise version in a stretchier cotton twill, meant for wearing in a city rather than on a wall. Both keep the gusset and the webbing belt.
The G-Pant, in most cases. It is the least specialised cut in the range, it comes in the widest choice of colours, and the twill softens quickly. The Swell Pant is the more relaxed alternative. Canvas EQT and the cargo cuts are the heavier, more hard-wearing end, and the wool pleated trouser is the one to reach for when the rest of the range is too casual.
Cool machine wash and dry naturally rather than tumble drying, which keeps cotton twill and canvas from shrinking and stops the webbing belt stiffening. Pigment-dyed pairs will lighten over the first few washes, most obviously at the seams and pocket edges — that fade is intended. Fasten the belt before washing so the webbing does not tangle.
Both Yards Store shops carry the brand: 13 Old Bank Street in Manchester and 86 Pinstone Street in Sheffield. Stock differs between the two, so ring ahead if you want a particular cut or size.