For the next edition of In the Yard, we sat down with Matthew Braun, founder and creative director of Purple Mountain Observatory, to talk about the thinking, people and places behind the brand.
From a lifelong obsession with fabric and function to the natural landscapes that inform each collection, Matt’s approach to PMO is rooted in experimentation, considered design and a belief that clothing should be made to be worn, day in and day out.
With AW26, that vision feels more realised than ever. We spoke about the evolution of PMO, the technology behind its latest collection, and the relationship between what we wear and where it takes us.
An insight into the mind behind the brand, and a conversation about making clothes that encourage us to get out there.
For those who don’t know you - who are you & what do you do?
My name is Matthew Braun, and I’m the founder of Purple Mountain Observatory, what do I do?? Well for PMO (being a small team) I do a little bit of everything, one day design, the next logistics or planning field trips then fabric testing with our partners throughout Asia, but my background is men’s design!
Where did the name Purple Mountain Observatory come from & what does it mean to you now?
It’s actually quite straightforward even though people find our name extremely mysterious! PMO is named after a famous observatory within the mountains of Nanjing, they’re dubbed the purple mountains because of the hues when the sun hits it. It’s an amazing place of tranquility, peace and natural beauty in a bustling vibrant city, It’s also the home of our factory HQ!
Was there a particular moment when you realised PMO had developed its own identity?
I feel as though it’s been a constant development, we’re always building on what PMO is but we haven’t really strayed from our original concept / look. I have spent a career obsessing over fabrics and putting fabric first in what I do. I see PMO as a place for experimentation and pushing what “the outdoors” clothing industry could look like. I think this Autumn Winter is the real delivery of who and what PMO can be. I’m excited to have this season within the market, it’s been a labour of love that the team and I have been creating for some time.
How do you approach building a collection?
It varies. We can start with stories within the outdoors, looking at an archetype and then what they need to be able to do what they do, that instructs our function. Function and creating a garment fit for a purpose is always in the back of our minds.
Then in terms of creativity, we look towards people around us, take inspo from the natural world, whether that be solar eclipses, moss formations or even something as simple as gardening. We work extremely close with fabric partners to understand what technologies can enhance where we have been and that really helps us grow.
What makes a piece feel like a PMO piece?
You can always tell a PMO piece away from another outdoor brand, can’t you? There’s no explanation for it, but you can, from the fabric to the zips, the pullers, the quality of the workmanship the finesse of the stitching the colour palette, the shape of the garment. We believe the clothing should be worn day in and day out.
PMO feels like it sits somewhere between clothing, culture & community. Do you see it it as a fashion brand, or something broader?
We’re definitely a clothing brand, we facilitate clothes for those within the outdoors or those who want a good jacket. But my goal has always been to help facilitate the doing part of that, working with people to get them exploring and into the outdoors, so I guess they’re symbiotic.
Where did your own interest in clothes and style come from?
Since I was 15 I’ve been making clothes. I bought silkscreens with my first salary and turned my folks garage in to a print shop. I would create and sell garments to many stores in my local area and around London. I then went on to study mens design at London college of fashion with the likes of JW Anderson and Saif bakir(cmmn swdn) as class mates. However I was someone always more interested in functional design than purely fashion.
What did you want AW26 to say about where PMO is today?
We’ve been working hard from the beginning and this is an accumulation of all our hard work. Being able to work with some of the top fabric mills, seeing our designs translated well into our product, and having the right community around us. AW26 definitely shows people who, what and where PMO is today.
Are there any particular materials or technical developments in AW26 that you’re especially excited about?
Yes! We have our Polartec Alpha Wool which I’m super excited about. We’re the first brand to market it within the industry and it’s a great piece I wear constantly, the breathability, the heat retention and the handfeel of the wool are just incredible! We have also been working closely with Toray (a wonderful Japanese performance fabric mill) on a range using their Dermizax membrane. Our new stratos shells are equipped and ready with a sturdy 20,000mm hydrostatic head rating protecting you from serious weather while an exceptional 30,000g/m² MVTR keeps things breathing while you’re on the move! The DOT AIR fabric we also introduced into the range this season in an incredible seersucker texture. These fabrics naturally breath with the micro perforated hole systems.
